Arezzo – Tuscany

No day is truly a throw away.

We had a day between Rome and Florence that needed filling and so the thought was to find a small safe town or city to explore for half a day and lay our heads that night. An hour of research produced Arezzo – a small commune in the Tuscan hills, just past Orvieto and Montepulciano. Ideal for its quiet and quaint nature, we happily found accommodation right off the city center at the Scacciapensieri Guest House. Ten minutes after piling in a cab, we found ourselves among stone streets lined with sun-bleached homes, medieval flags, local artisans, and lots and lots of wine.

A minute’s walk from our stay, the expansive Piazza Grande opened before us and we made a beeline for a gorgeous earthenware shop, Arete. Terracotta home and garden ornamentations decorated every surface. Their workspace, open and connected to the shop, was a constant and reassuring reminder that all the beautiful pieces were created and sold in-house. We purchased a couple of smaller items, saving our final decisions for earthenware until the next day.

The rest of the late afternoon was spent wandering through the historic streets, stopping at Chiantineria to share a charcuterie board and a beautiful chianti.

(not pictured: gluten pills)

Then down another lane we found a more commercial street and popped in and out of perfume and leather shops, constantly awed by the craftmanship.

We ended the night with a small dinner at one of the bistros not far from our stay and watched the locals perform in the Piazza Grande for what we think was the end of Giostra del Saracino. Men and boys dressed in medieval costume paraded into the square with drums and and trumpets to the applause of locals and other visitors.

I like catching the sunrise when I’m not travelling alone. It’s a personal moment to breathe, enjoy silence, and count my blessings. At half six I stood outside our front door realizing I should have researched where to go the previous night. Gut instinct suggested that if I followed one of the steep uphill streets then I’d be bound to find a lookout for the sun. Problem solved.

Save for a few construction men and the birds, the streets were mine – with practically every one evidencing the festivities. Patterned flags hung from homes with varied crests and numbers. Remnants of their parties appeared in the form of collapsible tables and chairs.

As the walk steepened and the sun began to peek from between buildings, I knew I was almost there.

Then a small park with a low stone wall came into view.

Finally, standing there at that stone wall, I watched the sun rise over the distant hills.

The descent was easier, and I took the opportunity to walk down streets I hadn’t previously seen.

Which ultimately led to a caffe, and the purchase of an almond pastry and an espresso for the very short walk home. And of course, news of available coffee and pastries sent us all back down there within the hour.

tre cappuccini, per favore!

Relaxing on the caffe’s outside patio came to an end as we checked the time. Over the next two hours, we split up to purchase a few keepsakes and a bottle of chianti from the shop we lunched at the previous afternoon. Time flew, and it was soon time to call the cab and head back to the station. We waited where Via Borgunto meets the Piazza Grande and looked our last at the square.

A short while later we boarded our train to Florence, brimming with excitement to return to one of our favorites cities. As the surrounding countryside whizzed by, we couldn’t help but agree that Arezzo had been the perfect choice. Until next time, Ciao!

A Century of Black Preps

This post is long overdue. I meant to develop and post in February during Black History Month, however, school and other obligations kept me from doing so. It wasn’t the easiest finding these photographs. Some were easily spotted in catalogs of Oak Bluffs/Inkwell Beach and others were simple finds via a vintage HBCU search. But […]